AUTUMN COLLECTION “番外①”

クロコダイル小袖に顔料の袴

今コレクションの中でも特に評価の高いクロコダイル紋様をふくれ織で表現した小袖に、洗い加工を掛けてユーズド感を出した顔料染めの袴を合わせたコーディネート。
袴は、顔料で渋いカーキに仕上げています。素材のベースの色、つまり裏側に見える色はベージュで、使い込んでいくに従って、ヒダや紐などのスレやアタリから、うっすらとベージュが顔を出し始めます。 使い込むことで、ユーズド感増してくる面白い袴です。見た目の印象に反して、しなやかで、シワになりにくい風合い。ヘビーユーズに もってこいでしょう。
一方、クロコダイル的なテクスチャーに仕上げられた小袖は、ゴージャス。渋い色目ながら、型押しのような立体感と妖しげな光沢が秀逸です。すべてを、織りの技術で生み出しています。経糸・緯糸の二重組織のふくれ織（マトラッセ）によって立体感を出し、チンツ加工で光沢を出しています。レザー感たっぷりな見た目なのに、フェイクレザーでなくて、織り生地なので扱いやすい小袖に仕上がっています。
袴のユーズド感が、見事なテクスチャーの小袖のゴージャスさを、男らしい印象へと力強く引き寄せていますね。

A different combination of Kosode, which is the most highly valued of this collection. This item is coordinated with Kosode which has a crocodile pattern with a puffy weave, and Hakama which has been dyed with a pigment that has been washed to create a used look.
Hakama has a dull khaki finish with pigments. The base color of the material, that is, the color that can be seen on the back side is beige, and as you use it more and more, a slight beige will start to come out from the wrinkles and strings. This is a unique Hakama that has a used feel and gradually changes its appearance. Contrary to its appearance, it has a supple and wrinkle-resistant texture. It’s perfect for heavy use.
On the other hand, Kosode, which has a crocodile texture, is gorgeous. Although it has a deep color, the embossed three-dimensional feel and the mysterious luster are superb. Everything is made with weaving technique. The double weft and warp matrasse gives it a three-dimensional feel, and the chintz finish gives it a lustrous look. Although this item has a leathery look, it is not made of fake leather, but is made of a woven fabric that is easy to handle.
The used feel of Hakama brings the gorgeous look of Kosode with a beautiful texture to a masculine look.

《2021 AUTUMN COLLECTION》